Panoramas from Kashmir and Leh

Sonmarg  - a very small city where you see the Glacier and then wait in anticipation before they let you through the Zojilla pass

Sonmarg - 2

The deadly Zojilla Pass

LamaYuru monastery - on the way to Leh from Srinagar

On the Way to Hunder  - near the KhardungLa pass

Nubra Valley - Hunder: Sand dunes and this is where you can see the double humped camels - the sand is the only warm thing in the chilling Kashmir

Hunder Sand dunes  - 2

Hunder Sand dunes - 3

Pangong Tso

Pangong Tso 2

Pangong Tso 3

Checklist for travelling to JnK - Leh, Srinagar etc

1. Wearables - Although you need the following, carry only a few warm cloathes with you, as Kashmir and Leh are great places to shop for Jackets, warm cloathes, and stuff made of sheep and yak wool. Keep enough space with you for the shopping you in the J n K. 
1. Good sunglasses - yes - the altitude means lots of sunlight... the white snow means a lot of reflection... you better be convering your eyes with RayBans or something similar grade.
2. Sunscreen, lip balm, and moisturizer: I think this one is understood.
3. Snow suit (good to have): You may get into a situation where you are taking a walk for 4-5 KMs through the snow and it is snowing or raining. It can be aweful to be wet in the sub-zero temperature. If not a snow suit, you need a jacket and pants that are warm enough for the occasion and water proof. At places like Gulmarg, you hire jackets for the trip to the mountains - these jackets stink and are unhygenic.
4. Snow boots (Good to have): I don't even know if we will get these easily in India.But often you will be walking through snow where your feet just go in 10 CMs in the snow and it melts and becomes ice cold water to make your feet wet. Ordinary shoes will not do. There will be gum boots for hire but they are ill fitting and make walking very hard. I saw some tourists from New Zealand who had shoes made for the snow.
2.  Cellone mobile connection - in most parts of Kashmir, Cellone is the only network that works. In some areas, Airtel and Aircel may also work. Vodafone seldom does. It will be a good idea to catch hold of a couple of cellone connections to co-ordinate with your co-travellers.
3. Lots of cash - 
1. especially if you are going to be in Sonmarg. There are no ATMs in that city. 
2. No one in J & K charges using credit cards - not even the decent hotels. You may have to run to an ATM before you want to check out of your hotel.
4. Choice of car: Whenever you hire a car, it has to be an Innova - best comfort. At specific passes, such as Zojilla you may be told that ground clearance of the low Innova is an issue - choose Zylo as the second choice. No other. Especially not a Sumo Grande - it rattles the bones and the ass too much. 
5. Acclimitization: It is good to stop at Srinagar while going, if you are going by road and you are taking that route at all. Srinagar is quite a tourist spot and is at a decent altitude, which helps you get prepared for the altitude of Leh. 5 Reasons to choose Srinagar – Leh Road over Manali – Leh Road 
6. Avoiding altitude sickness: You do not get enough oxygen in Leh through your nostrils, so you have to replenish it using a lot of water. Drinking a lot of water in that temperature means frequent bathroom breaks. In your trip, arrange for a bathroom break every 15 minutes if you are on the road. If there are girls in the group, you need to plan the breaks more carefully for obvious reasons.

Separatism and Tourism in Kashmir

First

...as a tourist, I felt absolutely safe in Kashmir. It's been safe since 2003 but many people are not updated about it. So, if you are planning a trip to Leh or Srinagar, go ahead by all means. Kashmiris will be happy to see you - you are good business. And you will be safe. If you are a nationalist, however, you will be irked by the occasional questions: "Aap India se aaye hain?"

Kashmir is the most beautiful place on earth that I have seen - I am including 4 continents in that including a fair bit of Europe.

The Paradise and the people

I was in Kashmir for two weeks this month and spoke to dozens of people. Anyone doing anything worthwhile in his life in that state has understood that their future is with India - a lot of money flows in from India through the tourists. Only the odd loser thinks that getting away from India will somehow mean redistribution of cards of his fortune where he may end up getting something better.

There is absolutely no reason for Kashmir to be different from the rest of India in any way. We should rally behind the Army and our government to straighten out the odd loser and the politicians who want otherwise. Politicians are just exploiting the losers. Both the politician and the loser do not want to do things the right way and want quick gains somehow.

The remnants of terrorism

I further learned from the locals that terrorism is just a cottage industry there and the Army is far more credible than the police. The occasional stone pelting is remunerated in daily wages and the youngsters pelting the stones do not know why they are doing it. Going rate: Srinagar: Rs 500 per day, Sonmarg: Rs 300 per day, smaller cities: Rs 100 per day.

The Army

I, in fact, saw police being quite rude with the locals there but the Army was always courteous. Even when a young shopkeeper after cleaning his shop while burning the trash, ended up burning the communication line of the Army, the 5 guys who came out to fix the wires were only joking with the sheepish kid ... who was recognized as the unintentional vandal by the onlookers.

We the poor ignored souls

A few people told me that the government ignores us and does little for us. I told them that I am just as worthless for the government of India as they are... and even in the bigger cities, Government does a lousy job with the infrastructure, public utilities, power, and public transport. Government does not discriminate. Government just doesn't care for either you or me. They seemed to understand.

People in general were happy with PDP regaining some strength in the General elections and they were less in favour of the Abdullas. Now the Abdullas and the Muftis may compete to show who is the bigger living martyr for the article 370.

People in general

People of Kashmir in general are objective, good to talk to, and easy to deal with. As we know, they are very good looking with sharp features and good built - so much so that you will come across dashing, burly guys driving taxis and doing small time jobs who could easily pass off as Bollywood superstars.

Conclusion

Due to the separatism, however, Kashmir is like that gifted son of India that has huge potential to make it big in life but instead indulges in unproductive mischief to be a pain in the back for his mother.